Rovin' 'Rauder's Sturgis Report 8/09/99
Well, I arrived. Sturgis is... something! I'll tell you, there are more bikes and bikers here than I thought I would ever see in this life. But first, the trip.
Coming the last 300 miles of what worked out to be 1,950 miles from Manasquan NJ on the Atlantic Ocean was the best part of the trip. It started with almost flat plains land. Corn so closely packed that the bugs can't get to it. Deep green, but covered on top with tan/gold tassels like a carpet. The hay has been harvested, with the huge round 6' x6' roll bales scattered across the landscape. As I travel further, the land slowly becomes less and less flat. (It is never as flat as Florida land.)
Dakota means friend in the local Indian language, I'm told. It is accurate. The folks here are regular Americans. You know the type. We all aspire to be such people. I'm instantly at home in any conversation, even with folks who aren't crazy about bikers. They drop their guard the moment you act like a regular person, not a cityfied attitude A.H. I'm proud to say I don't know how to act that way.
The fields change as I ride with my trusty Bessy on past endless cornfields and amber waves of grain. No purple mountains, yet. The fields are undulating, with occasional trees. Most of the trees appear in clusters, called a copse (spelling?) I guess they find underground water, or survive at the desgression of the farmer. Still these scattered trees make the landscape perfect. I finally start seeing the famous South Dakota sunflowers. Hundreds of acres of sunflowers. Brilliant yellow. Actually land this big isn't measured in acres, it's measured in sections. A section is 640 acres. It is also a square mile. A small farm out this way is 2 sections. You get the picture!
The sunflowers, as you may know, turn to make the flower face the sun. They turn 180 degrees over the day, and turn back in the morning. Quite a feat for a dumb plant. I am approaching the fields from the east as the sun rises. The sunflowers can be seen for a great distance. A bright yellow glow in the distance, growing over the many miles we cover to reach them. The interesting thing is that the fields change from a sea of yellow to deep green as we motor past. The contrast is dramatic. You look at the right angle, and the change is abrupt. Instantly the reason is obvious, only the face of the sunflower is yellow!
I'm continuously amazed at the amazing size and beauty of the land. This is the great plains. The grasslands of America. The home of the buffalo. I'm in love, again. The first time this far north in the plains, and it's different from the central plains. I just can't explain. You just can't see America from a TV screen. "Dances With Wolves" was filmed here. I just can't capture the image with a still camera.
As I reach Rapid City, I realize two things: There are more bikes now, and I forgot Bessy's chain wax. I'm heart broken. 1600 miles without wax (I waxed her and changed her oil immediately before I left). I find a Yamaha dealer and buy chain lube. Bessy is whole again, and I just know she forgives me. Even more bikes as I leave Rapid City. Then suddenly, it is 95% bikers. Like someone turned a switch! The slow hills turned to the Black Hills, tall, with pine trees and the green native grasses which have grown here for thousands of years. Gazillions of bikes. Bikinis, Bikes Wow!
The next 30 miles and even more bikes. Pine covered hills rising up dramatically as we wind our way into the Black Hills. Campgrounds everywhere. Tents packed in tight, and 100 yards from I90. God, I hope my campground isn't like that! I take exit 32 and head into Sturgis. At 5 mph, maybe. As I proceed through town, I realize I'm being passed, by a baby stroller! Gorgeous blond pushing it, I did notice. OK Momrauder, I'm sure she's smart!
I ARRIVE in downtown Sturgis. It would be an oxymoron, except for the crowds. Forget the people, crowds of BIKES! The main street is, is, stuffed, packed, loaded (I need a stronger word!) There are many, many bikes here. Lining both sides of the street, almost touching. Main street is maybe a good mile long. Not only are the bikes lining the curb, there middle of the street has another two rows of bikes! The rest of town is nearly as packed like cordwood as main street. I'm at a (rare) complete loss for words. It's a small town!
Finally I find my way out of town on the right road, 79 north. There in the distance, is an apparition. Kind of like a mini Devils Tower (Close Encounters Of The First Kind). It must be Bear Butte. I make a turn as instructed in my (what else) internet directions and follow the road. And follow, and get nervous! Maybe this place doesn't exist! I pass all of civilization, and still no Lone Star Campgrounds. Keep going, keep - wait, a sign! Looks like, it IS! Cut down a gravel road most of a mile, well kept. This is the right place. Man am I lucky. No highway noise, great view, no crowds, lucked out again. God looks after fools and drunks, so I'm double covered.
OK, First thing, I'm paying full fare here. No commercial! Lone Star is the best campground I've seen up this way. Well off the roadway, plenty of room. Some other camp sites are crowded and 100‘ from the highway, or close at 10pm. Not the Lone Star. Just 5 miles from Sturgis, but way off the beaten path. Highly recommended. I got a great site. A bit tilted, but minor. Nice kid came around asking if I wanted free wood for a campfire. Went to the "Cook Shack" for a beer and dinner. Cold beer and good basic eats. Clean showers, pay phone, portable toilets (oh well). Free band, not bad! Laundry at $10.00 per load including tip. Really nice people. Kudos to everyone! I'm at home.
Well, Bessy is asleep, I'm comfortable and all's right with the world. 'nuff said. See attached pic of Bear Butte. I'll take pics of Sturgis tomorrow. Oh, I forgot! I had a famous encounter today:
You know, they said you can see anything at the Sturgis Rally, and today proved it! I hear a stir, and look over to see Al Gore riding by on an exact copy of the Captain America bike from Easy Rider! He's completely duded up with a tattered and faded jeans vest, open with no shirt, faded ragged jeans, alien-type wrap-around sunglasses, but no tattoos. On the back of the bike sits Hillary Clinton with black leather skin tight pants and a black leather vest, again with no shirt. Al yells "Set them puppies free!", and she does! What do you know, she%apos;s the one with the tattoos! Two small ones, "$" signs. The nipple rings look good too. I looked around for Bill, but I hear he's in the local church, at confession. Word is we won't be seeing him for a week or two. The priests are running in 4 hour shifts. You can see it on pay-per-view later this month.
Rovin' 'Rauder in Sturgis. (I kind of feel like a Christian is Israel. I belong here, but I don't, somehow!)